A bunch of un-donate-able clothes...

Yesterday was Earth Day, and a Sunday, so I started to sort out through our mountains of clothing to figure out which are staying and which should be packed for donation. I usually do this periodically, but I think ever since I took up sewing last year these kind of activity (and intense cleaning in general) seems to take a back seat.

Anyways, what would you do with a bunch of un-donate-able clothing items? 

Sorting through (the top of) our things I found some torn and some stained clothes. Most of the times I cut em up into rags to wipe the floor or cleaning the kitchen. This time I around I made 3 pairs of play pants for the Bean (2 are 3/4 length and 1 longer, all elasticized pull up types, using the same pattern as the Choo choo pyjama bottom, which is McCalls 6458).

From daddy's pants (the very same cotton twill pants from which I made Bean's Fisherman Hat #1) is this grey/blueish 3/4 pull pants (elastic was from my old pants). Pictured folded: Dark red checkered fabric was from an old shirt and the black one underneath was from a stained sweatshirt.

Not one, not two but three!

This is my 3rd version of the same pattern McCall's M6513 (view D) made one after another in the same month at that - I am that boring.

The first version I used this very soft trendy knit which is a dream to wear but extremely roomy and comfy. For the second version I used a stabler knit, a ponte knit. I like it very much and it fits great, but realized that it's kinda thick and warm for spring/summer. For this 3rd version I am using an ITY knit, leopard print I purchased from Gorgeous Fabrics. The fabric is slinky-ish but stabler than the first version, but lesser so than the second version. The suggested fabric is "moderate stretch knits only". Since I'm a novice I have no idea what that means exactly. All 3 fabrics I used have different feel, stretch amount and so on.

The instructions were easy enough to follow IMO. However I remember making one thing specifically different. I hand-stitched down the back neck facing inside rather than machine stitch it from the right side, and it's much neater (I did as instructed for the first version, but ends up unpicking the seams because it looks too wonky for me). Perhaps others can make it neater that way, but not me...

Here are the pics:

Cherry Wine Faux Wrap Top

This is my version 2 of McCall's M6513. Version one was too loose but thanks to the fabric, ohhh sooo comfy. But alas, I see it's gonna be an at-home lounging top now but it's okay. (Project post here.)

The photos are horrendous - I took the pics using camera phone in a too bright room...

Version 3 is being hemmed as we speak (what I meant is in-between chores and chasing after the Bean).

Faux wrap knit top, version #1

I got the "trendy knit rose florette" fabric on sale from Fabric Mart some time last year and finally found a pattern that I wanted to try out: McCall's M6513, View D (In picture of pattern sleeve is the light blue top but with long sleeves).

The pattern being by Palmer/Pletsch includes tutorials on fitting, which I of course have a problem with... Even with pictorial instructions I still managed to end up with a bigger top which doesn't fit well :) I cut a size 16 for shoulders and then to 22 towards my hips (AND ON TOP OF THAT ADDED AN INCH THROUGH THE MIDDLE TOO!!!). I don't have a size 22 hips, but I was imagining that this will better fit my mommy tummy... (I always seem to approach fit more like an experiment... and then forget about the ingredients afterwards...)



While on paper pattern I felt that this might be okay, upon basting the fabrics together realized that it was too big, so I sew a 1.5" seam. And it is still fitting poorly IMO. It was a bit big on the shoulder for my liking, and then loose under the armpits and on my back (like butterfly). Oh, and of course I knew this beforehand but somehow still manage to miss it: pattern placement on print fabrics... As you can see, a huge rose florette is highlighting my worse area: tummy! Uggh! In this picture it is not that terrible, but it is cringe-worthy in other pics.

It wasn't loose around the bust area simply because the front pieces crossed each other giving a nice snug look in the area.

I am not sure what material this fabric is, maybe rayon polyester, or rayon jersey? It is very very soft and very comfortable to wear. However I think this is a 4 way stretch type fabric, so eventhough I added stabilizers (as recommended) on the shoulders and at the side gathers, I feel that this top will expand even more over time. And that since the front part are 2 pieces of fabric crossed and sewn together on the sides (faux wrap) and the sewn to a 1 piece back fabric, the front is heavier and so it pulls the top to the front (because this fabric is so soft and maybe less stable?). The pattern does recommend stabler knits.

This top is not a home run for me because of the too loose fit and the type of stretch of the fabric I used (but I still love the fabric, sooo silky soft, but it is already pilling after wearing it out to the mall with a handbag across my body...) I am not about to ditch the pattern - the neckline and the look I love. I think rather than move on to the other stuff, I will make more of this top to get the best fit for me. I've already made adjustments on the pattern, and planning to make it with a cherry wine colored ponte knit fabric I have (pic below, on the left, from Fabric Mart).

If and only if I get a satisfying fit, I will make another version using the leopard print ITY jersey pictured above (bought from Gorgeous Fabrics)...

Asymmetrical top : Nein! Nein! Nein!

This is the story of an asymmetrical tunic top using the pattern M6204 (tunic A.)

The pattern was very straightforward and simple to sew up. However, I doubt that I will be making it again in the future, at least as-is. It is not the pattern, it's me. Somehow my body type (and my brain) rejects this shape.

I used a purple stretched poly-charmeuse. It was also shiny. :( You don't need a stretchy shiny fabric to sew up this type of top, you know. I just wasn't thinking. It made the stitches pucker up because I didn't use a stretch fabric friendly stitch. My bad. And the shine highlight this fact... This fabric was also very annoying to iron. But that's just because I threw out our ironing board before moving into this apartment and have been ironing on the dining table. So the result of this are wrinkly photos...

Tunic before beading.

I sewed shell beading around the neckline.

Close-up.

I also sewed the beads around the back...

I raised the neckline a bit and made it less wide, but it's still too wide than I would've liked. Perhaps this also contributed to my not-so-enthralled feeling with this effort. The shell beads around it made it nicer thankfully. (Shell beads are from my stash, contributed by my MIL from my GMIL's stash) So as usual I will still be wearing it, but also as usual under a jacket! :)

---

I have not been liking any of my photos (of me) taken by my hubby :) Plus the lighting in our apartment as you can see in all the photos so far is horrible. With a toddler, we hardly remember taking the camera (DSLR) when we go out. Too huge to lug out you see. My point and shoot sucks. I do wish I will learn to take better pics. Maybe a tripod in the future? That still won't help with the bad indoor lighting :)

Of UFOs and upcoming projects

Yesterday I decided to finish off my very first attempt at sewing, a very old UFO* as old as my son. The back story is that I cut out my old dress (can't seem to find any picture, but it's a navy colored empire waisted long maxi dress with a faux wrap top - how's that for a description?) to make into a tunic top from a pattern (the only pattern I had at the time). The fabric of this dress is slinky, silky-ish polyester I think. I stop at cutting out the fabric pieces and then put it away for a whole year. Took it out August/September of last year when I became a SAHM, and turned it into a loose Sorbetto top, but never finish it. Didn't want to turn and stitch the armhole and hem (coz by this time the fabric has frayed like crazy), didn't have enough fabric to make self fabric binding, and didn't have anything in stash that matches or complements it too!

But 3 thrift store trips ago I found a white fabric (difficult to know the types of thrifted fabric unless it's noted on the tag, printed on selvage or I take time to do the tests that I do not know how to do, or that I do not have the tools/time to do ---> lazy...). Initially I envisioned something else for the fabric, but when I took out this UFO, they just go together so well!



Okay, technically this Sorbetto is not yet done. I've done the hem part and the length now is more of a tunic than a top which I prefer anyways, but have not yet stitched down the binding on the neckline and armhole. I probably will handstitch it as usual.

One reason why I'm not done with this is because of this boo boo:


My pinking shears accidentally got caught out with the front part of the top when I was trimming the seams where I attached the white to the bottom of the tunic. See the "small" hole on the purple fern in the picture above? As the Bean would say, OH NO!!!

So, last night was spent making these in the hope to cover up the mishap:

That's my very first attempt of making a fabric rosette (this morning I glued on safety pin on the back, so that I won't ruin it in the washer like I tend to do without fail...). I used the same white fabric, and hand sew Czech beads from my stash to the middle parts. Tutorial to make extravaganza fabric rosettes can be found on this site.

---

Talking about UFOs, a most recent project that is being put on the back burner is a refashion of my favorite Massimo Dutti wool & angora tan coat that I shrunk in the washer fall of last year. I think the shrinking of that coat really made me so upset that I am trying my best to watch my laundering... I've never sent anything to the drycleaners here, so I am not sure of the cost, frankly I am being very conscientious of pricing and cost now that I'm here in the US/with a baby. I did it every month back in Malaysia because we wear a lot of silk/lace etc traditional outfit for events/work and so on.

Here is where it's at:

The coat shrunk from a European size 16 (US size 14) to a child sized one! So it was quite brutal for me to rip up the seams, as there was a lot of puckering (to the many many interfacing) and the wool and angora hide a lot of the stitches too.

My plan is to make a clutch, incorporating the collar and so on to the design. The black fabric with gold, white and bright red flowers is a thrifted fabric that I am using as the lining.

I will only go back to this project once I'm done with at least one of the following upcoming projects:

---
1) Sporty dress with exposed zipper - I've wanted to make this dress for a while now, but only got the right fabric for it last Friday. It's a Sangria-colored (like darker hot pink) Sophia ponte knit that I bought from Vogue Fabrics. I haven't decided on the type of zippers yet, I bought several types from Joann's but the only gold colored ones are for Jeans and they are stiff... :(

Pattern for this dress is McCall's M6395, and I want to make the long sleeved red version (on the pattern).


2) Kimono-esque style top from purple stretch poly charmeuse bought from FabricMart (provided that I have enough yardage will follow pattern M6204, or else will have to wing it). Beading/embellishment will be optional.


3) Making a 3-quater sleeved version of the Date Dress from pattern M6518 from this thrifted cotton fabric:


This fabric I think was my very first thrifted fabric that's not cut out fabric for quilts. I have 3 yards of it. For the dress, I will leave out the ruffles from the pattern and this version will incorporate the tweaks I want to make for the pattern. I might need to make another muslin for this purpose... hmmm...

4) Top - long sleeved/3 quarter sleeved version) out of this floral knit also from FabricMart using pattern M6513



----

Anyways, time to hand stitch the tunic and officially close it's chapter as a UFO.

*UFO = unfinished object

Red & black date dress

Yesterday afternoon the date dress was finally completed. I am emotionally exhausted. Spent. Has any sewing project did that to you?

There are some fit issues that I've identified that I can do better for next version (yes I do like the pattern McCall's M6518 , or the shape really) but after so many times ripping the seams, resewing and so on, I won't mess with this one anymore. The issues are from my own limitation re my fitting, and not from the pattern.

I might shorten the hem to follow the pattern sleeve picture. Right now with the knee length and two color it's looking too corporate-ish, officey. Shorter hem will make it look more fun. I'll do longer than knee length when I do an all black version someday.

Might get the hubby take pics for when I am all cleaned up and dressed for our dinner out, but here are the pics for now:

Under Construction

This is the dress pattern that I have been working on and off the past week, McCall's M6518 (Misses' Lined Dress) that I bought during the recent pattern sale:

I used a red stiff woven fabric that I am not sure what it's called or made of (it was thrifted months ago), just that I like it a lot. It kinda look like linen but stiffer, like a thick shirting. with lighter red and black slubs weaved into it??? Did not have enough to make the whole dress with it, so I decided to cut into my precious thrifted black pure wool fabric. I think it could be gabardine, but also I am not sure re that.


I have been making muslins before I cut into the dress fabric, out of also thrifted fabric for lining, and then made adjustment to the pattern on the neckline: I raised the back neckline and made the U-neck not as wide eventhough I retained the depth. Since I don't have enough yardage of the lining material, I ended up using a cream thin silk fabric that was also thrifted. Only after I was done making the lining and fitting myself was when I start cutting the dress. The pattern pieces for the dress and lining are the same, minus the ruffles for the bodice of the dress.

On the pattern envelope, the dresses are made out of one fabric with contrasting band using trim or ribbon sewed onto the midriff part. I chose to skip that trim as I am already making the skirt portion using black and I don't want to make my torso any shorter than it already is. Ohh, and this dress comes with pockets, yay!

I didn't have an 18 inches zipper to go with the dress, so we went to Joann's yeasterday 15 mins before closing time for me to get it. I bought several lengths of black zippers and some with metal, which turned out to be a blessing because on the car ride home it dawned on me that since I raised the back neckline, it meant I will need a longer zipper! :)

Right now I am attaching the zipper to the dress, and once I'm done with that I will be able to attach the lining to the dress... Who knows how long this will take. If I'm lucky, sometime late tonight....

----

Parting shot of my surprise Valentine's flower from the hubby :) <3

My Leopard tote bag

It's finally done! Yay!!!

Materials:
Some synthetic leopard print fabric "harvested" from a thrifted vest-and-bermuda shorts set

Leather scraps from a gifted thrifted long black leather coat
Thick interfacing


Pattern:
Based on Bag F of McCall's Fashion Accessories (Laura Ashley) M4400


Alteration/modification to the pattern:

I wanted a leopard tote bag like the one I saw on Boden's catalog, so I made some modifications on the pattern.



Firstly, I added if I'm not mistaken horizontally: 4 inches to the middle of the bag, 1 inch each to the sides, vertically: 4 inches to the middle, and 1 inch to the bottom.

I also added length to the straps. I top-stitched leather (same material as the applique at the base) onto the strap, this is also modification from the pattern. Instead of setting the straps inside the seam, I sew them onto the body of the bag, like the inspiration photo above, and sew scraps of leather onto it to cover the stitches that attached the straps to bag, and also as and added design element.

Since my last post re the bag, I've made another little change to the pattern: eliminate the facing portion (that also holds drawstring for the bag) because my upsize of the pattern rendered that portion to be too small. But no biggie. Without the facing, the tote bag now is more true to the inspiration picture, although I also added a button (it's a leather covered button, and came from the same coat that I "harvest" the leather for strap and appliques on the base).

Conclusion:
The bag is 15.5" tall, 17" wide and 6" thick. I used a thick interfacing, but it's not stiff. It's tough when sewing multiple layers, and sometimes this cause the stitches to skip :(.

I love my leopard bag! It's huge! And I'm so glad that it's finally done!






Linkup:



---

Now I can move on to other projects. But first I have to finish my Sew Cute Dresses class project. I didn't last night at the class, I'm very slow like that. I'm making Dress #11, I am Tiny Tucks. I think I'm going to make adjustments to what I've already done, snip** snip**. When I'm done, will have to go back to the workshop to show my lovely teacher. So I better get going!