So, it took me a half day mulling over what to make next over the last weekend after the quilt top, and home dec-y stuff. That's a short mull for me coz I can really get sidetracked (how weird that word "mull" sounds now).
I chose the sparkiest, fiddliest and imo girliest fabric in my stash, the one that I've bought online (Gorgeous Fabrics) more than a year ago, at least, not knowing what to expect. While loving it upon receipt, was at a loss at what to make of it... Plus was kinda intimidated to cut into it (which was the same story with most of my "precious" stash, all waiting for the time I feel that I'm a bit ahead in my learning curve, and nerve). It's a mint and gold velvet burnout on silk (chiffon), and I have a lil over 3 yards of it.
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I think the fabric in different lighting/or day and night will look different as the above pictures.
A simple design that can showcase the fabric. I wanted something like a kimono style or a duster jacket/long coat style, if you may. Which I think a style that would suit me when I think along the lines of Sarah Liz's Body shape style guide for oval/diamond. My interpretation is to wear this open over a skimming/or a lil loose sleeveless hip length top and skinny pants for example.
The quick mull also lends to a rather (surprisingly) quick rummage in my unorganized pattern stash. I unearthed Simplicity 7406, apparently an OOP pattern, that I thrifted back in Iowa for 25 cents. :) The description says that it's a loose-fitting jacket with front band, has full-length sleeves from dropped shoulder line. Comes in size 8-20. I think it's a good base for what I have in mind.
Continuing with the adventurous spirit that seems to come in abundance in this project, I cut a size 20 to ensure fit over my middle and bottom half, and then work it out from there on. My reasoning is that after all, it's a dropped shoulder style anyways, and my fitting issues was always with the shoulders running big, but it should cease to be a problem with this style.
The only change I made to the pattern was to change the sleeves to be straight and a lil wider, in line with the kimono-esque feel I desired. And I cut the fabric. Then I remembered that I never washed/pretreated the fabric before. Duhhh... Yikess! Do I sew and then wash? What if they shrink on me? Sob sob...
I ended up soaking the cut fabric in a tub with tap water+fabric softener, lightly squashing and thoroughly rinsing them, something I used to always do when washing my silk traditional clothes back when I was in boarding school (high school) and we had to wear traditional clothes or blouses with dressy pants/long skirts during prep classes (I suppose it's like homeroom time in schools here in US? Except that this is in boarding school, so it's a few hours at every weeknight. We have afternoon prep hours too, after lunch and rest, but we have to wear school uniform for that. I guess in uni (lived at home) and then work, my mom and I just send them to the dry cleaners.) Here, I guess I've been lazy and put everything in the washer! Note to self: I really should handwash all my me mades........
Thankfully, it didn't shrunk or anything like that, so the next morning I was able to iron on and proceed. The instruction was easy breezy, very short. I french seamed all seams (not in the instruction, but I've made enough french seamed projects to remember to add the step this time).
Oh, by the way, I saw that the selvage is kinda nice and I wanted to use that as a hem feature on the sleeves and the jacket's front band. For the sleeves, I just made sure that I cut the sleeves pieces with the selvage on the hem edge. ;)
So after the front bodice pieces sewn to the back piece (and french seamed), and then the sleeves attached to the dropped shoulders (and french seamed), I pin and basted (i do a lot of pin and hand basting in all my projects) the sides together and tried it on (before stitching and then french seamed). Man.... It was too big around the chest area. Now, looking at the pattern pieces, am not sure if this is because I cut a size 20 straight (probably more coz of the style), coz usually my bust go with size 16, and my shoulders go with size 14. Usually. But worry not. In true Far fashion, I just pinned and marked to where I want the sides to be (sewn in one time from sleeves to sides).
Now its a better skimming to the bust and flowy from there on down. Rather than a kimono style, it's kinda resembled a loose kebaya (another variation of the traditional malay dress). Which is not a bad thing. After all, the month-long Eid celebration will commence in early August after we're done with this fasting month. Now I have something festive to don, in case I don't have time to work on my intended dress (tunic and long skirt) in the fabric I planned for that to match with my boys (my extended family is big on matchy colors for our many celebrations, it makes for fun photo session).
Okay, I'm jumping the gun here by posting the finished outfit. But I forgot to take picture of it while it was baggy (coz there was frenzy of stuff around the house as well as this project related) and I was trying and pinning and basting and so on. Oh... did I tell you that the gold part sheds so much? From start to the end, and I know it will keep on shedding! I've never had to sweep and vacuum so many times in my life, esp for just one project! Last time my clothes shed so much was the fully beaded (again on chiffon!) wedding solemnization dress of mine. (Nope, didn't shed during the ceremony (didn't notice anyways LOL), but I've worn it a number of times up to early pregnancy (mainly events like Eid party) and I shed tiny glass beads everywhere! Hmmm... I wish I can fit into it again. No, it wasn't a me made, but I love the fabric! Refashion it? Hmmmm.... Not yet I guess.)
I'll back up a bit to the part of the front band, and wanting to use the fabric selvage as a finish/feature. I cut 2 pieces of the band pattern with the selvage there of course. Then I join the 2 pieces to make one long band (this is as instruction) french seam style (my preference). Then I iron the band in half right side together, and sandwiching the staystiched front of the bodice (like in pic below) I hand baste and then machine stitch it down (making sure that the selvage part will be on the front).
Iron them. This is how it looks like after stitching down. Oh, and I stitch and fold/iron 1/4 inch of the raw edge of the front band:
Pin the band together and baste (the selvage part to the folded down raw edge on the inside):
And topstitch down.
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Iron iron..... Lots of ironing, and shedding, and sweeping, etc etc.
What's left was hemming the bottom part. But I let it hang on the dressform whole day, before I made a tiny (for me) hem the boring dirty way: stitch 1/4 inch at the bottom, iron and fold over on the stitchline, pink cut the seam to smaller, then fold and iron a tiny hem, and then stitch down approx 3/8 inch. Iron. Done. Phew.
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| FRONT |
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| BACK: I dunno why one of the sleeves look longer than the other here. I assure you it's not so in real life. I think. LOL. |
And that's that.
For my friends over at the 2013 Style the Stash Sewalong, I think I might have used 2 1/2 yards for this. :)
What's next? Quilt the baby quilt already! and then another shirt for hubby with some tweaks to be done from his first shirt during the June stashbusting. And maybe a button up shirt for the Bean too... Ah, plans... we'll see about that!
Smiles,
Far
Far
